(The grand opening featured a radio station on site, giveaways and prizes, with El Torito employees from other stores coming to assist | Photo courtesy of El Torito Supermarket)
The latest and largest location in the El Torito Supermarket chain opened two months ago in Madras, part of a new crop of ethnic grocery stores serving Central Oregon’s increasingly diverse population — which includes Latino, Black, multiracial and Asian American communities.
In Madras, a town of about 7,500, Latino and Hispanic people make up 36 percent of the population, according to census data. That’s more than double the statewide percentage. And in Klamath Falls, El Torito Supermarket — which opened in 2008 — benefits from a Hispanic population exceeding 8,000 residents in a five-mile radius.
Capitalizing on this demographic trend, and the demand for a wider variety of food products, privately-held and family-owned El Torito — which has been steadily expanding since its founding in 2002 — is the largest Mexican supermarket brand in Oregon. (In addition to Madras and Klamath Falls, its stores can be found in Woodburn, Eugene, Salem, Lincoln City, and Medford.)
The opening of the Madras El Torito was “a really big deal in this economy,” City Administrator Will Ibershof has been quoted as saying, “given the strong interest in revitalizing the space previously occupied by Erickson’s Thriftway” — which was often referred to as “the heart of the community” during its decades of operation. “A lot of new housing construction has been slowed down. Many folks are leery of taking on new options and new opportunities. So seeing this turnaround so quickly is a big deal for us.”
According to Manager Mary Bravo, the 27-employee store has hired five people who were previously with Erickson’s — she being one of them.
“Given our size, this El Torito location has more of a selection of American products than smaller stores in the chain to complement its extensive variety of Mexican items” — including seasoned meats, household items, bread, pastries, tortillas, and hot deli food.
“The bakery section has been a big hit,” she said, “with fresh bread made several times a day to accommodate demand. As soon as it comes out, people are already grabbing from the case, which is located to the right just as customers enter the store, along with sample trays.” Other popular products include Concha (a traditional Mexican sweet bread baked with a crunchy topping in flavors such as chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry), and churros (a type of fried dough pastry).
The deli has also garnered rave reviews, with one customer saying that “their hot deli food is so good, and the chicharrónes con carne are top notch.”
“We also have an entire aisle of spices, including dry chili peppers and many others that are used in Latin and South American cuisine,” Bravo said. “A lot of our fresh produce comes from California, which gives customers a variety of items normally not found in Central Oregon such as pitaya,” a fruit from various cactus species that — when ripe — has a mildly sweet flavor often described as a blend of pear and kiwi. “And our large meat section consists of four cases of meat, cheese, and seafood.”
“We offer so much in this store,” she added, “that people come from the Valley to enjoy the variety of items and tell us they’re grateful to not have to travel further, as used to be the case. Locals are also happy to have a grocery store besides Safeway, which is on the other side of town.”
Bravo observed that “there’s a whole different feeling now in the space, a vibrancy that comes from having a bigger selection of goods and being a lot busier.”
Noted Debbie Tayor, executive director of the Madras-Jefferson County Chamber of Commerce & Visitor’s Center, “El Torito has added a vital attribute to our community and is a welcome and appreciated complement to our existing businesses.”
